CHICKAMAUGA AND CHATTANOOGA
NATIONAL MILITARY PARK
CHICKAMAUGA AND CHATTANOOGA
NATIONAL MILITARY PARK
DRAFT
CLIMBING MANAGEMENT PLAN
May 29, 1998
TABLE OF CONTENTS
LEGAL AND ADMINISTRATIVE CONSIDERATIONS
The Battle of Chickamauga and Battles for Chattanooga, in 1863, were significant events in determining the outcome of the American Civil War. The purpose of Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park is to preserve the significant resources of the Civil War campaigns and battles of Chickamauga and Chattanooga, and to educate the public about the events memorialized. The park was established in 1890 "for the purpose of preserving and suitably marking for historical and professional military study, the fields of some of the most remarkable maneuvers and brilliant fighting in the war of the rebellion". (26 Statute, 33HR6 US4 - August 19, 1890). This act of Congress was the first to authorize the preservation of an American battlefield. In creating the first, and largest, National Military Park, Congress laid the foundation for the national historical park concept in the United States. From this concept evolved future national battlefields, memorials, and monuments. Thus, the legislation establishing Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park provided the cornerstone for the preservation of historic sites throughout the United States.
The park is comprised of 17 units located in two states (Tennessee and Georgia), four counties, and seven municipalities. It contains 8,300 acres and received 9.6 million visitors in 1997, including one million recreational visitors.
Sunset Rock is a dramatic outcropping of sandstone located along the western rim of Lookout Mountain just north of the Georgia-Tennessee state line. Confederate Generals Bragg and Longstreet took advantage of the panoramic view from Sunset Rock to plan the Battle of Wauhatchie on October 28, 1863, an attempt to cut the Union supply line into Chattanooga, which the Confederates had placed under siege after the Battle of Chickamauga. Today, hikers and climbers enjoy the natural and historic view from the top of the outcrop, and climbers use sites above and below the rock as staging areas to climb on the 100-foot cliff face. Use of the Sunset Rock area of the Lookout Mountain unit by climbers has increased significantly over time, making Sunset Rock one of the most popular climbing areas in the region. The increased activity in the area has adversely impacted the soil and vegetation, diminished the solitude once associated with Sunset Rock, created parking problems at Sunset Rock and surrounding areas, and increased tension between park users and nearby residents. These issues generated the need to address, through a climbing management plan, activities which impact the park’s cultural and natural resources.
The National Park Service proposes to manage climbing at Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park (CHCH) to protect park resources and the quality of the visitor experience.
The primary objective of climbing management is to preserve and protect the natural and cultural resources of the park. A secondary objective is to provide high quality experiences for visitors, including climbers. All policy and actions will be based on these objectives.
A popular guidebook to rock climbing within Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park refers to the Sunset Rock area as the "birthplace" of sandstone climbing in the South. This same volume traces some of the early history of climbing in the park back to the 1940's. It further states that during the 1960's several climbers began developing routes on the cliffs of a limestone quarry on the northwest end of Lookout Mountain known as the Eagles Nest. Climbing activity then moved to the cliffs on the western side of the mountain around Sunset Rock. During the 1970's that area received considerable attention as a large number of routes were developed. It was at Sunset Rock during the 1980's that local climbers achieved what was probably the first climb in the south rated at 5.12 (a very difficult climb). By 1995, more than 250 routes had been established on the cliffs at and around Sunset Rock. An unknown, but suspected large number of bolts have been placed in the walls. No inventory of bolts and other fixed hardware has been conducted.
As the numbers of climbers increased, the tension, created by the added vehicle and pedestrian traffic, and the shortage of parking space, also increased between nearby residents and the park users coming and going from the Sunset Rock area. At this same time, concerns were raised that climbing was a factor in what appeared to be a rapid increase in soil erosion in the area. Many people were also concerned that the vegetation was disappearing from areas at the top and bottom of climbing routes. Some trees were showing damage or were dying from a combination of soil compaction and loss, along with damage to bark from ropes being rigged to tree trunks.
A public meeting to address climbing management issues was held in 1987. No consensus was reached. The cliffs in the historic areas around Point Park and the East Brow were closed to climbing. In addition, over the next few years several studies were initiated to assess and monitor the natural resources around Sunset Rock for damage, in an attempt to establish baseline data.
In 1994, climbers presented the park with a plan to rehabilitate the trails in areas around Sunset Rock. Under the direction of the National Park Service, and with the support of climbing organizations, local businesses, and other service organizations a large scale, long-term program was begun to rebuild trails, stop erosion, restore topsoil, and replant lost vegetation. The participating climbers, who provided landscape architects for the project, believed that rehabilitation, combined with hardening of the trail surface, maintenance and careful monitoring of the area, would allow the Sunset Rock area to withstand continued rock climbing and pedestrian traffic without degradation. This on-going effort has been very successful thus far, with the great majority of labor contributed by climbers working as volunteers. The project has been described in nationally circulated climbers’ publications as one of the premier trail restoration projects in the United States.
In an effort to reduce conflicts with other recreational users, the Access Fund and other climbing organizations proposed the construction of a parking area at the northwest base of Lookout Mountain near the Chattanooga Nature Center. This parking area, located adjacent to park property at a trailhead, has been completed, but thus far it has received only light use. The new parking area requires climbers to hike nearly two miles up a moderately steep trail to access the climbing areas of the mountain, which is likely a contributing factor to its light use.
The alternatives described in this plan were developed to address specific concerns of the park, the climbing community, other interest groups, and other park visitors, all of whom will be encouraged to participate in any future developments regarding the Climbing Management Plan.
The National Park Service recognizes climbing as a longstanding and legitimate recreational activity in the National Park System (NPS 1991a). This draft climbing management plan, a supplement to the Resource Management Plan for Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park, was developed in response to the recognition of an increase in climbing and resulting impacts on park resources and visitor experiences. Advances in technology such as the use of power drills, an increase in bolting, and the diversification of climbing styles have contributed to the increase in these impacts. The NPS must evaluate these impacts, and take remedial action when the impacts become unacceptable. This plan provides the framework for that action.
Loss of vegetation, soil loss and compaction, damage to trees, and uncontrolled bolting or placement of fixed protection are the primary threats to natural resources.
Humans have been impacting the cliff areas of what now constitutes the park for many years. During the Civil War, Confederate Generals stood at Sunset Rock to observe Union troop movements in the valley below and were moved to plan for what became known as the Battle of Wauhatchie. Soon after the war, a photo studio was constructed on top of the main prow, and as development of the mountaintop progressed, the area immediately above Sunset Rock was the terminal station for a narrow gauge railroad that traveled along the bluff lines. Neither the studio nor the railroad exists today.
It is difficult to quantify damage to the natural resources because of a lack of long term studies. Only two studies of the area, one by the University of Georgia, and the other by the Nature Conservancy are presently in place as baselines to monitor changes to the soil and vegetation. Both of these studies utilize photographic monitoring, site mapping and quantitative data collection of vegetation cover. Although the studies provide a baseline, they have only been in place for a few years and thus provide little information about long-term impacts of humans on the area. In addition, no accurate information exists to identify the sources of disturbance to the natural resources.
Except for those areas that have rock exposed or are located in the path of flowing water, most of the west brow of Lookout Mountain is covered with vegetation. As human activity has increased, vegetation at the top and bottom of some cliffs has been trampled. As plants died, the soil has been exposed, resulting in erosion. One study estimated that between 10 and 39 inches of soil has been lost in various places around Sunset Rock and other bluff areas within the park. Many trees in the bluff areas are dead or dying. In areas that receive constant foot traffic, the soil has washed away from around the base of trees, resulting in the roots becoming exposed. The bark of many trees has been damaged through their use as anchors for climbing, which makes the tree more susceptible to attack from fungus and insects. Vegetation has been greatly reduced in some high traffic areas. In some places only small islands of plants remain where once the entire bluff was covered with vegetation.
Preserving the natural resources along the impacted bluff areas will require rehabilitating those areas that have been damaged, and additional monitoring to identify those areas that may require hardening or other remedial action in the future.
No accurate data exists to quantify the number of people within the various types of groups that frequent Sunset Rock or other areas used by climbers. Normally the hikers, sightseers, civil war enthusiasts, and climbers are able to share the resources of the area with little or no conflict. Problems can arise, however, when hikers and climbers arrive early in the day and occupy all of the available parking spaces. As a result, a visitor who wishes to enjoy the view from Sunset Rock, or the civil war enthusiast who wishes to contemplate the battle action which took place in the valley below may not be able to legally park near the Sunset Rock trailhead. These visitors, who intend to remain in the area for a short period of time, either park illegally on residential streets near Sunset Rock, drive to parking areas way from Sunset Rock, or leave altogether due to a lack of parking space.
On busy weekends large numbers of climbers and equipment can clutter the Sunset Rock area. Ropes, packs, and other gear can make walking on the trails near the bottom of popular climbing routes difficult for through hikers. At the present time there are no restrictions on where climbing may occur at Sunset Rock. Some visitors may be distracted by the sight of climbing activity on the nearby cliffs, or by hearing the voices of climbers nearby. The presence of climbers and equipment at the top of Sunset Rock itself can be distracting, and ropes strung across the trail create a potential trip hazard.
The quality of the visit for all users may be reduced by the presence of large numbers of people at Sunset Rock and other trails in the area.
The large numbers of people coming and going from the Sunset Rock parking area, as well as the numbers of visitors walking on city streets to the trailhead from other parking areas, intrude on the residential atmosphere of the town of Lookout Mountain. This conflict is amplified when visitors take shortcuts through side streets and residential yards. Upon finding the Sunset Rock parking area full, some visitors park illegally on nearby residential streets, often in front of private residences.
The Sunset Rock parking lot is small, consisting of nine parking spaces. On most fair weather days the parking spaces are constantly full. On most weekends visitors will be found stopped in the center of the parking area with their cars idling, waiting for someone to hike up the trail and leave, thus vacating a parking space. Regular visitors to Sunset Rock arrive with little expectation of finding a vacant parking space. The drivers drop off their passengers and equipment and leave to locate alternate parking. Parking on private property near the Town Commons and use of the park’s Point Park Visitor Center parking area, neither of which are convenient to the Sunset Rock area, are the primary alternatives for visitors seeking parking within the town of Lookout Mountain. Additional, but even less convenient parking is available at a trailhead located at the base of Lookout Mountain near the Chattanooga Nature Center. Other parking is available at the entrance to Garden Road at the base of Lookout Mountain, and at the west end of the Old Wauhatchie Greenway located off of the Cummings Highway.
Any alternative chosen will include:
- developing a resources monitoring program for climbing areas that will include visitor education and resource protection
Climbing management alternatives considered and rejected included closing the entire park to climbing and allowing unrestricted climbing. Management objectives could not be achieved through either alternative.
Alternative A would continue present management. The entire east brow of Lookout Mountain and the "Point Park" portion of the mountain’s west brow would remain closed to climbing. The remainder of the west brow would remain open to climbing. The National Park Service would continue to require padding to be applied at the base of any tree used by climbers to rig ropes.
Alternative B is the option preferred by park management. Under this alternative, the east brow of Lookout Mountain would remain closed to climbing, as would the "Point Park" portion of the mountain’s west brow. The cliff face within view from Sunset Rock looking south would be closed to climbing. The remainder of the mountain’s west brow, including Sunset Rock, would continue to be available for climbing. Fixed anchors, serving as the top of climbing routes, would be placed 1 to 2 feet below the rim at Sunset Rock. The placement of these fixed anchors, and the placement of additional fixed anchors at the top and bottom of routes where damage to trees has occurred or has the potential to occur, would be approved by the National Park Service after soliciting and considering public input. Rigging to trees would be prohibited in these areas. Bolts and other fixed protection remaining in the area closed to climbing would be removed. Group size could not exceed twenty climbers. Also, a climbing fee system would be explored and implemented, if feasible, to offset the costs of managing the climbing program and fund rehabilitation projects in climbing areas. Sport rappelling would be restricted to the "Eagles Nest" area.
Areas in need of rehabilitation could be closed to climbing until resource damage is corrected.
Alternative C would include elements of Alternative B with one exception: All areas around Sunset Rock would remain open to climbing, except for closures required to correct resource damage.
Alternative D would allow climbing by permit only. Climbing zones would be established, with daily use limits set for each zone by the National Park Service. Permits issued would not exceed the established use limit. Selection of this alternative would also require selection of Alternative B or Alternative C to establish the area open to climbing. Areas in need of rehabilitation could be closed until resource damage was corrected.
The availability of adequate parking spaces for climbers will continue to be a problem for both climbers and residents near Sunset Rock. Although parking problems are involved in several of the issues involving climbing management, the park’s management authority is limited to the use of the parking area at Sunset Rock and the Point Park visitor center. While both areas are available for climber related parking needs, the needs of other visitors require parking space to be made available for other users as well. For this reason, the current combination of "One Hour" and long term parking spaces will be retained at the Sunset Rock parking area, and parking for a limited number of climbers will also be available at the Visitor Center. The park will continue to encourage climbers to utilize legal alternative parking areas located away from Sunset Rock, and will support the efforts of the town of Lookout Mountain to manage climber parking problems within the town. The climbing community will also continue to be encouraged to find solutions to this problem.
Alternative A –Damage to vegetation and soil loss at both the top and bottom of climbing routes would continue. Trip hazards would continue to exist where ropes and webbing are rigged across trails to trees. Ropes and climbers descending/ascending over the cliff edges would continue to affect the visitor experience, especially at Sunset Rock.
Alternative B-Vegetative damage and soil loss would be minimized at the top of the cliffs. The areas at the bottom of the climbing routes would require higher levels of monitoring and maintenance to protect against damage to plants and soil. Trip hazards caused by ropes at the top of Sunset Rock would be eliminated. Intrusion on the experience of other visitors to Sunset Rock would be reduced. The impact of large groups on the resource and visitor experience would be reduced. A fee for climbing, if feasible, would enhance the park's ability to document climbing use, and to defray the expenses of managing the activity while working to minimize resource impacts and possible conflicts.
Alternative C-Effect would be the same as under Alternative B, except the potential for adverse impact on the visitor’s experience at Sunset Rock would be increased due to greater exposure to climbing activities in the area.
Alternative D-Access to areas open to climbing would be restricted to the maximum number of permits allowed per day. Less potential for damage to natural resources caused by overuse. Potential to distribute the use of routes more evenly, reducing congestion and enhancing the experience of climbers and other trail users.
Authority and direction for managing Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park, including recreational use, comes from federal legislation and National Park Service policy. Prior to developing a management plan within a National Park system unit for any recreational activity, laws authorizing the existence of a particular park must first be reviewed. Congress has stated in the enabling legislation of most units of the national park system that parks have their own particular purposes and objectives. Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park was created as our nation' s first National Military Park. The park was established in 1890 for the purpose of "…preserving and suitably marking for historical and professional military study, the fields of some of the most remarkable maneuvers and brilliant fighting in the war of the rebellion". (26 Statute, 33HR6 US4 - August 19, 1890).
The natural resources of the park are managed to support the preservation of cultural resources and the interpretation of the Civil War battles fought at Chickamauga and Chattanooga. Natural resources are also protected by the Endangered Species Act (87 Stat. 884), the General Authorities Act (84 Stat. 825), the Redwoods National Park Act (92 Stat. 163) and others.
Historical and cultural resources are protected by the Act for the Preservation of American Antiquities (34 Stat. 225), the Archeological Resources Protection Act of 1979 (16 USC 470), the Historic Sites Act of 1935 (49 Stat. 66), and the National Historic Preservation Act as amended (NHPA: 16 U.S.C. 470), among others.
NPS Management Policies: Recreation
National Park Service Management Policies recognize rock climbing as a legitimate recreational activity in the park system (NPS 1988). The National Park Service will consider the park’s purposes and the effects on park resources and visitors when determining the appropriateness of a specific activity within a park. Unless the activity is mandated by statute, the National Park Service will not allow a recreational activity within a park, or in certain locations within a park, if such activity would involve or result in
-inconsistency with the park’s enabling legislation or proclamation, or degradation of the values or purposes for which the park was established
-unacceptable impacts on visitor enjoyment due to interference or conflict with other visitor use activities
-consumptive use of park resources (does not apply to certain traditional activities specifically authorized by NPS general regulations)
-unacceptable impacts on park resources or natural processes, or
-unacceptable levels of danger to the welfare or safety of the public, including participants
Rock climbing and other recreational pursuits are to be managed in a manner that ensures that they do not cause degradation or conflict with the intended purposes of the park.
Regulations
The Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) is used to manage climbing through general and park-specific regulations. Examples include prohibiting the use of motorized drills, designation of specific access trails or campgrounds, prescribing colors or type of chalk and equipment to reduce visual effects of climbing, and closing areas to bolting or other activities (58 Federal Register 6/14/93). Applicable general regulations are:
36 CFR 1.5 Closures and Public Use Limits - allows for closures, restrictions, or the development of special rulemaking.
36 CFR 2.1 (a) Preservation of natural, cultural, and archeological resources. Except as otherwise provided, the following are prohibited:
(1) Possessing, destroying, injuring, defacing, removing, digging, or disturbing from its natural state:
(i) living or dead wildlife or fish, or the parts or products thereof, such as antlers or nests
(ii) plants or the parts or products thereof
(iv) a mineral resource...
(3) Tossing, throwing, or rolling rocks or other items...down hillsides or mountainsides...
(5) Walking on or climbing...an archeological or cultural resource...
(6) Possessing, destroying, injuring, defacing, removing, digging, or disturbing...cultural or archeological resources.
36 CFR 2.12 (a) Audio disturbances. The following are prohibited:
(1) Operating motorized equipment or machinery...
(ii) that makes noise which is unreasonable, considering the nature and purpose of the actor’s conduct, location, time of day or night, purpose for which the area was established, impact on park users or other factors which would govern the conduct of a reasonably prudent person under the circumstances.
(3) In non-developed areas, operating any type of portable motor or engine...except pursuant to the terms and conditions of a permit.
To obtain a copy of this map, contact the park at 706-866-9241, extension 112. A copy will be sent via fax or regular mail. Please include your preference and the appropriate fax number or mailing address.
To obtain a copy of this map, contact the park at 706-866-9241, extension 112. A copy will be sent via fax or regular mail. Please include your preference and the appropriate fax number or mailing address.
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Last edited: 01/15/99