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UPPER MULEY TWIST
GENERAL
DESCRIPTION
From the Upper Muley Twist Canyon trailhead, the total round trip
distance is 15 miles and is best done as an overnight hike. From
the Strike Valley Overlook parking area, the trip is nine miles
and can be done as a long day hike or as an overnight. The three
mile long Strike Valley Overlook Road is rough and usually requires
high clearance or four wheel drive.
The Strike Valley Overlook Road is located one mile west of the
top of the Burr Trail Road switchbacks.
Passenger cars can be driven a half mile in to the Upper Muley
Twist Canyon trailhead. Four-wheel drive vehicles, and often high
clearance two-wheel drive vehicles, can drive three miles up the
canyon to the Strike Valley Overlook parking area. Check at the
visitor center for the latest road conditions before driving into
the canyon with high clearance two-wheel drive vehicles.
MAPS
USGS 7.5 Minute Series: Bitter Creek Divide and Wagon Box Mesa,
or Earth Walk Press, Capitol Reef National Park. Available from
the CRNHA at the park Visitor Center.
BEST SEASON FOR HIKE
Spring and Fall
DESCRIPTION
Upper Muley Twist Canyon cuts lengthwise down the spine of the
Waterpocket Fold creating a colorful,
meandering canyon. The massive Navajo and Wingate sandstones are
beautifully exposed here--tilted by the folding of the earth's
crust and sculpted by millions of years of erosion. The Wingate,
striped of its Kayenta Formation caprock, has eroded into unusual
forms, including many impressive arches and natural bridges.
The half mile round trip hike to Strike Valley Overlook provides
outstanding views of the Waterpocket Fold and the surrounding
area. The rim route in Upper Muley Twist Canyon provides similar
views. From the Strike Valley Overlook parking area, it is an
easy 1.7 miles up the wash to Saddle Arch. Here, a sign indicates
the way to the lower end of the rim route. Follow the cairned
route to the top of the Fold.
Continuing up the canyon in the wash, the narrows are 2.3
miles beyond Saddle Arch. Cairns mark a route around the narrows
via a ledge on the east (right) side of the canyon. It is easy
to miss this bypass route if you are not watching for cairns.
It is possible to explore the narrows, but a pour-off near the
beginning requires a difficult climb using old hand-and-toe
holds carved into the rock. The narrows end in an impassable
pour-off where water can sometimes be found. Large letters painted
on the rock wall mark one corner of an old uranium mining claim.
A short distance up the canyon from the point where the narrows
bypass trail drops back into the wash bottom, a sign marks the
upper end of the rim route. At this point, you can loop back
to Saddle Arch along the rim route or return the way you came.
It is also possible to explore farther up the canyon. Sand Point,
2 miles beyond the rim route sign and west of the head of Upper
Muley Twist Canyon, offers a panoramic view of the Circle Cliffs.
The rim route involves some scrambling over steep, exposed
slickrock and can be a little tricky when carrying a backpack.
Use caution, especially if wet or icy conditions exist. There
are cairns to guide you from the canyon bottom to the rim. The
route along the rim is sparsely cairned. Three-quarters of a
mile from the upper end of the rim route you will cross a short,
steep notch in the crest of the ridge. One mile farther, shortly
after traversing another saddle in the ridge, you will climb
up over steep slickrock ledges to get back on top of the rim.
Stay near the west (right) edge and watch for cairns leading
over this obstacle.
As you approach the lower end of the rim route watch for a
line of cairns. These will lead you west to the route that drops
back down to the canyon bottom. The rim is fairly wide in this
area and it's easy to miss the route down. If you are hiking
the entire loop, it is advisable to take the rim route on the
way up and the canyon route on the way back, as it is easier
to find the route when hiking in this direction and the most
strenous part of the hike will be at the beginning.
MILEAGES (approximate)
- Upper Muley Twist Canyon Trailhead to Strike Valley Overlook
parking area 3
- Strike Valley Overlook 0.25
- Strike Valley Overlook parking area to Saddle Arch 1.7
- Saddle Arch to start of narrows 2.3
- Start of narrows to rim route (upper access) 0.6
- Saddle Arch to upper end of rim route 2.7
- Total round trip from Upper Muley Twist Canyon trailhead
15
- Total round trip from Strike Valley Overlook parking area
9
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