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ROCK CLIMBING
 Traditionally,
Capitol Reef National Park has experienced minimal use by technical
rock climbers. However, recent years have seen an increase in
climbing in Utah's canyon country. Included here are the park
regulations and concerns regarding technical climbing.
Rock Type
The rock at Capitol Reef is comprised predominately of sandstone.
It varies in hardness from the soft crumbly Entrada to the relatively
hard Wingate. The Wingate cliff walls are the most popular for
climbing, as natural fracturing has created many climbable crack
systems. In addition, the hardness of the Wingate lends itself
more readily to the successful use of chocks, nuts, and camming
devices; however it can flake off easily and be very unpredictable.
Climbing in canyon country is not something to be taken lightly.
Route Descriptions
Two published guides cover climbs at Capitol Reef. They are Desert
Rock by Eric Bjornstad from Chockstone Press, Inc., 1996 and
Rock Climbing Utah by Stewart M. Green from Falcon Publishing,
1998. Both are available for sale at the visitor center
bookstore . If you climb a new route and wish to leave a route
description contact a ranger at the visitor center.
Permits
Permits are not required for climbing. However, if you plan to
camp overnight on a climb, you are required to obtain a free backcountry
use permit, available at the visitor center.
Restrictions and Concerns
Capitol Reef National Park is a clean climbing area. Minimum impact
techniques that don't destroy the rock or leave a visual trail
are encouraged. The use of white chalk is prohibited. Climbers
using chalk must use chalk which closely matches the color of
the surrounding rock. The use of power drills is also prohibited.
Bolts may only be used to replace existing unsafe bolts. Where
it is necessary to leave or replace existing webbing, the webbing
should closely match the color of the surrounding rock. Ropes
may not be left in place unattended for more than 24 hours, and
these ropes must be out of reach from the ground or other points
accessible without technical climbing.
Closed Areas
Due to the abundance of prehistoric rock writings, the section
of the rock wall north of Utah Hwy 24 between the Fruita
Schoolhouse (Mile 80.6) and the east end of the Kreuger Orchard
(Mile 81.4) is closed to climbing. In other areas, climbing is
not permitted above or within 100 feet of rock art panels or prehistoric
structures. Other areas closed to climbing are: Hickman Natural
Bridge and all other arches and bridges, Temple of the Moon, Temple
of the Sun, and Chimney Rock.
Safety
Climbing during the summer is very hot as temperatures frequently
reach the upper 90's to near 100 degrees. Carry plenty of water.
Afternoon thunderstorms are common in July and August. Sandstone
is weak when wet, so avoid climbing in damp areas or right after
a rain. Please climb safely! Many falls have been taken
on relatively easy routes because experienced climbers became
careless. Please report all accidents or injuries at the visitor
center. |
