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Press Room: Denali National Park and Preserve (AK) Major Rescue, Korean Climber Saved


A multi-day rescue effort to save an injured Korean climber was initiated Thursday May 20th by a late night emergency call to the Alaska Rescue Coordination Center (RCC), who in turn notified mountaineering staff at Denali National Park & Preserve. 40-year-old Il Ho Cho of South Korea, leader of the Daejeon Mt. McKinley Expedition, reportedly fell 50 to 60 feet just above Denali Pass at 18,300 feet during a descent of the West Buttress route. Cho was unable to descend any further due to his injuries. Climbing partners wrapped Cho in layers of down clothing, insulated him from the snow with a backpack, and then descended to the 17,200-foot high camp to get help. Throughout the early morning hours, members of multiple Korean climbing parties made two separate attempts to return to Cho with emergency supplies, however they were turned back by high winds and whiteout conditions. Friday morning, a crew on board a Hercules HC-130 aircraft, launched by the 210th Rescue Squadron out of Kulis Air Force Base in Anchorage, was unable to locate Cho due to overcast skies. In a remarkable 15-hour push at altitude on Friday, an NPS ground rescue team climbed from the 14,200 foot ranger camp to where Cho lay at 18,300 feet. The team then executed a technical lowering of the injured climber, reaching high camp at about 10pm. The team was led by Renny Jackson, a climbing ranger from Grand Teton National Park on temporary detail to Denali. Jackson’s team consisted of four other Teton climbing rangers who volunteered their time to join Jackson during his detail.At high camp, Cho was stabilized and treated overnight for exhaustion, hypothermia, dehydration, frostbite, and a possible head injury. On Saturday, poor visibility continued to preclude a helicopter evacuation, so Jackson led a further technical rope lowering of Cho down the “Rescue Gully” from the 17,200-foot high camp to the 14,200-foot ranger camp. Of note, this was the second time in a week that the Grand Teton-based patrol and other volunteers had executed a 3,000-foot rope lowering of an injured climber down the Rescue Gully. When skies cleared on Monday morning May 24th, the park's contract high altitude Lama helicopter flew into the 14,200-foot camp and evacuated Cho to 7,200-foot basecamp, where Cho was transferred to an airplane and taken to Anchorage for further medical care. Denali mountaineering ranger Gordy Kito served as the Incident Commander for the rescue, with mountaineering ranger John Evans directing ground operations from the 14,200-foot camp. The overall effort involved the entire South District ranger staff, the 210th Rescue Squadron, and over 35 volunteers at various camps on the mountain. Submitted by Maureen McLaughlin, Public Information Officer, Talkeetna Ranger Station

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Author:Jane Tranel
Last modified on: January 23, 2004
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