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 Fossils in Alaska National Parks

What types of fossils have been found in Alaska?

More than a dozen dinosaur species have been found in Alaska, most from the time just before the massive extinction of dinosaurs at the end of the Cretaceous Period.  The first dinosaur fossils found in Alaska were on the North Slope during the mid-1980s.  The North Slope refers to the northern side of the Brooks Range, the most northern mountain range in Alaska.  The fossils were of an Edmontosaurus, a duck-billed dinosaur of the hadrosaur family.  Edmontosaurus was a large plant eater, about 10 feet tall and 40 feet long.  It weighed about 3 tons.  More recent fossils of other hadrosaurs, the Troodon and the Dromaeosaurus have been found along the Colville River of the North Slope.  These dinosaurs were smaller than the Edmontosaurus and were carnivores. 

Dinosaur footprints from the Jurassic Period have been found near Black Lake on the Alaska Peninsula.  The tracks date back more than 140 million years, the oldest fossil evidence in Alaska, but scientists are not certain on the species of dinosaur that left them.  In the Talkeetna Mountains of southcentral Alaska, the skull of an Edmontonia was found.  Edmontonia was a four-legged herbivore with leathery and bony armor plates along its back.  A hadrosaur skeleton, all but the skull, was found dating back to 90 million years ago.  This is the oldest hadrosaur known in Alaska.

The bulk of the paleontology has been done on the North Slope.  At least seven plant-eating dinosaurs have been found there.  Hadrosaurs were large herbivores that walked on their back two legs and had a duck-like bill.  Three different hadrosaur fossils have been found, including the Edmontosaurus, the Kritosaurus, and the Lambeosaurid.  The Pachyrinosaurus and the Anchiceratops were both ceratopsians -- dinosaurs that walked on four legs, had large horns and horny plates on their heads.  Hypsilophodontids were smaller herbivores that ran on two legs of which only Thescelosaurus has been found so far. 

In addition, six different species of Theropods have been found on the North Slope.  Theropods were mostly carnivorous.  They ran quickly on their back legs to catch their prey, and killed them with sharp, serrated teeth.  Tyrannosaurus and Albertosaurus were huge hunters 10 to 15 feet tall and equally long.  The Troodon was smaller, only 6 feet tall, but had a larger brain and large eyes which may have been for hunting at twilight.  Although only 4 feet high, Dromaeosaurus and Saurornitholestes may have been among the fastest and fiercest of the predators.  Pachycephalosaurus was only 7 feet tall, it was an herbivore with a thick, domed skull.  One theory for their thickened skulls is that they, like rams today, butted their heads in ritual combat. 
Source Bureau of Land Management, Alaska Region: http://www.ak.blm.gov/ak930/akdino.html

 

Fossils in the National Parks of Alaska

Although there are only 16 national parks in Alaska (and several affiliated areas), they contain upwards of one-third of all the land in the national park system.  They also include some of the more remote areas in the United States.  Only a few of the parks have roads that lead to them.  Only a tiny fraction of the park lands have established trails to use.  The only tourist access to much of this land is by small airplane.  Parks such as Denali, Kenai Fjords and Wrangell – St. Elias are along the road system.  The parks of southeast Alaska, Klondike Gold Rush, Sitka and Glacier Bay are usually visited by boat – either by the Alaska ferry or the many cruise ships that tour that coast.  Not only are they hard to get to, but they are extremely large. 

Map of the national parks in Alaska

The shear size and remoteness of these parks, makes paleontology research more than a little challenging.  Think of looking for a fossil somewhere in a park the size of a small state, like Massachusetts or Vermont, that is very, very far away, and has no roads or and no trails.  Don’t forget, you can only do your field work during the few months of summer (not including spring or fall), because the rest of the year it is cold, dark, and mostly covered with snow.  Despite all of this, paleontologists have found interesting fossils in the Alaska national parks.  It is clear that there is much more to be learned than we already know.  The process of discovery will be long and slow but exciting.  There will still be plenty to discover when the students of today are the scientists of tomorrow!

 

Aniakchak National Monument

Present day Aniakchak National Monument, lies within a string of volcanic islands known as the Aleutian Islands.  The area is known for extreme weather, stormy and cold, it has been little used by Native American or by European peoples.  The land is rocky and only small plants live there.  Much of the area cannot support trees, the soil is too shallow and the winds too strong.   Most of the wildlife lives along the shores feeding on the plants and animals of the ocean rather than the land.  

Rocks dating from the Late Jurassic period to the Eocene epoch (some x to y millions of years ago) can be found in Aniakchak.  Researchers examining a section of late Cretaceous rock known as the Chignik Formation have found dinosaur footprints: the first evidence of dinosaurs in southeast Alaska.  The Chignik Formation includes fossils from shallow marine environments in one section and fossils of life on land in another section.  These fossils date from 77 to 68 million years ago, approximately the same time as dinosaur fossils found in northern Alaska. 

Although parts of Alaska have moved through time, it is believed that these rocks and fossils were formed at the same latitude that the area is at now.  In addition to the hadrosaur hand and footprints, researchers have also found fossil leaf litter and a standing forest.  All of these together will help paleontologists reconstruct a picture of what the environment was like in Alaska some 70 million years ago.  A forested environment with enough food to sustain dinosaurs weighing many tons that must have been quite different from that of today.

 

Bering Land Bridge National Preserve

The Bering Land Bridge was a stretch of land that connected North America to Asia, more than 13, 000 years ago.  During the last ice age, much more of the earth’s waters were frozen as ice, and there was less water in the oceans.  The sea level dropped and exposed the land between the continents.  The land bridge was a migration route for plants and animals between the two continents, and the national preserve is an important source of information about the ice age.

At Bering Land Bridge National Preserve, researchers have found fossils from the Quaternary Period of the Cenozoic Era.  The last great ice age was during this period.  Scientists have found woolly mammoths, including their teeth and tusks and bone, and the remains of other animals such as ancient horses, bisons and even a prehistoric beaver dam.  Fossils of ancient trees, beetles and marine life have also been found.

Another type of fossil record is buried pollen.  Each year, the pollen from plants falls to the ground.  If it falls in an area where sediment layers are forming, they are preserved within the sediments, whether they are soil or sedimentary rock.  Scientists take “cores” by putting a long hollow pipe straight down into the ground and pulling up a long, skinny plug of dirt or rock.  By examining the pollen in the core, they can learn about the plants and therefore the environment and climate back through time.  At Imuruk Lake in the preserve, researchers have been able to collect pollen cores dating back 100,000 years. 

 

Katmai National Park

Although Katmai National Park is one of the most active volcanic areas in the world,  with at least 14 active volcanoes, it is best known for its large population of brown bears which come to its rivers to feed on salmon.  Katmai is less well known for its fossils, including a site along the shores of Naknek Lake.  The site contains many remains of flowering plants, which first appeared sometime during the Cretaceous period.  These plants did not diversify until after the dinosaurs had gone extinct.  This site is likely to be only 50 millions years old, allowing researchers to examine yet another chapter in the changing paleoenvironment of Alaska.

 

Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve

Today, Gates of the Arctic is a maze of rugged mountains, glaciated valleys, and arctic tundra.  It is inhabited by caribou, Dall sheep, wolves, and bears.  Fossil deposits of its past, however, range from tiny invertebrates of the Devonian Period of the Paleozoic Era, some 400 mya, to Pleistocene remains of bison and mammoth less than 5 million years ago. 

Fossils from the Paleozoic Era include marine invertebrates like coral, and variety of other small marine life have been found such as brachiopods and trilobites.  From later in the Paleozoic, during the Permian period, scientists have found teeth from shark who once swam its waters.  Many other marine fossils from the Triassic and Cretaceous periods of the Mesozoic Era have been preserved in limestone.  Although the area has many high mountains today, it was obviously under the sea during the Paleozoic and Cenozoic eras.  During the more recent past of the Pleistocene, however, the area was already above water and home to bison and mammoth and other mammals that roamed the northern reaches.

 

Yukon – Charley Rivers National Preserve

Yukon-Charley’s rich history is filled with warm, shallow seas, cold ocean bottoms, turbulent continental shelves, volcanic activities and continental collisions. The unusual and remarkable depositional history continues to baffle geologists.  The rocks north of the Yukon River and overlying the Tintina Fault record, in almost unbroken succession, the history of the area from about 800 million years ago to the Cenozoic Era - about 40 million years ago - an incredible and perhaps unparalleled 760 million years.

The earliest animals were tiny, soft creatures from the Precambrian Era.  Some were single-celled, you might not see them without a microscope.  Later animals evolved bones and hard shells, which are more easily preserved as fossils.  Finding the earliest organisms is difficult and exceedingly rare.  In 1976, scientists discovered tiny one-celled organisms, and some multicellular jellyfish and flatworms in Yukon – Charley.  The one-celled organisms are less than one-hundredth of an inch long and make the flatworms and jellyfish, about one-fiftieth of an inch long seem big in comparison.  Not only that, they were found to be about 700 million years old.  Making them some of the oldest fossils ever found.

The flatworm is particularly interesting because it looks to be an ancient ancestor to the group of microscopic animals that still live today, and are believed to be the type of animals that formed that line of animals which eventually evolved into the terrestrial animals – reptiles, amphibians, birds, and mammals.

Throughout the rest of the park, scientists have discovered other fossil beds that stretch all the way to the Pleistocene.  These other fossils include marine invertebrates and shell fragments.  The greatest amount of fossils are of plants, including pollen, fruit, seeds and wood.  Because of its great size and remoteness, much still remains to be learned from the Yukon-Charley fossil deposits. 

 

What is the next step for paleontology of national parks in Alaska?

Researchers will continue to visit the Alaska National Parks to determine what other fossil treasures there might be.  By looking at sites around the state, it may be possible to develop a more complete picture of the environment, and its flora and fauna.  Hadrosaurs as well as other herbivorous and carnivorous dinosaurs have been found in northern Alaska from the same time period.  These finds show that the dinosaurs were year-round residents of these northern latitudes.  Denali National Park and Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve both have sedimentary rocks from the same general time.  By studying these and other parks in Alaska, scientists will continue to learn more about the earth, its environment and the species that lived here during those ancient times.