January 18, 1998

L3400 (ACAD)

To All Interested Acadia National Park Climbers :

Acadia National Park continues to implement its recently completed Climbing Management Plan. The purpose of this letter is to inform you of recent decisions about new route development, which was defined in the plan by the use of fixed protection or comprehensive route cleaning.

The plan said that installing fixed protection (including pitons) and cleaning routes would be permitted only at designated climbing areas and only with the prior approval of the superintendent. A group of climbers would review all proposals for new routes and the replacement and removal of fixed protection, and make recommendations to the superintendent. Our intent was to prevent the expansion of fixed protection and comprehensive route cleaning to new areas and control their continued use in areas where they have already occurred. The plan did not specifically designate the climbing areas where these practices would be allowed to continue. Those designations have now been made and are reported here.

Park staff met with local climbers in September 1997 to discuss zoning park climbing areas as either open or closed to new route development using fixed protection and route cleaning. A comprehensive list of areas was compiled along with the existence and level of fixed protection at them. Climbers then recommended open or closed status for each area. With few exceptions, they reached consensus for all areas. Most areas were recommended for closure.

Park staff then met to review climber recommendations. Most recommendations were adopted. The following climbing areas will remain open to new route development as described above, subject to review and approval by a consulting group of climbers and the superintendent: the Precipice Wall, the South Wall of Champlain Mountain, Jordan Cliffs, Beech Cliffs, Canada Cliffs, Great Head, Dorr Mountain (pinnacle), Enoch Mountain (upper area), and Mansell Mountain. All areas not named here shall remain free from further new route development using fixed protection and route cleaning. Climbing and the establishment of new routes without using these practices is still allowed throughout the park, unless closures are in effect for other reasons (e.g. peregrine falcon nesting).

Park staff felt that the following areas, recommended for open status by climbers, should be closed to new route development: Bald and Sheep Porcupine Islands, Valley Peak, and the Anvil. The islands and the Anvil have limited development now. Valley Peak is undeveloped. We do not believe new route development should expand to these areas.

The park is working on an inventory of fixed protection. It will be reviewed by climbers to arrive at an agreed upon baseline. We expect to monitor fixed protection regularly.

We also expect to make further progress with the development of the climber consulting groups this winter, and will keep you informed of our progress. If you have questions please direct them to Resource Specialist Charlie Jacobi (email charlie_jacobi@nps.gov or 207-288-5463). Thank you very much for your interest and support.

Sincerely,

Paul F. Haertel
Superintendent