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Acadia National Park Climbers at base of Otter Cliff.
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Acadia National Park
Climbing - Attachment 4

ATTACHMENT 4

STATUS OF ANP FIXED PROTECTION

The status of fixed protection is not well known by park staff. Limited monitoring of a few areas since 1993 revealed the installation of the first extensively bolted route (seven bolts) on a wall at Canada Cliffs. Another three-bolt route was added on the same wall by early 1995. At least sixteen bolts exist on three walls at Canada Cliffs, including one belay station. Several pitons are also fixed here.

New bolted routes at Enoch Mountain (6), Beech Mountain (5+ 2 pitons), North Bubble (2), and Eagles Crag (12), and development of Great Head, have probably all occurred since the late 1980's. Enoch Mountain reportedly has additional bolts as top anchors for some climbs.

At least nine bolts can be found at the top of Great Head, and many others are in the cave and on the face. The number of bolts and pitons at the South Wall of Champlain is not known. Canada Cliffs, Great Head, Eagles Crag, and probably a few other areas not climbed often have limited potential for more fixed protection. Otter Cliffs has no fixed protection and several local climbers believe it should remain that way, except possibly for anchors to protect belay trees.

The South Wall of Champlain probably has limited opportunities for further fixed protection. Some undeveloped climbing areas may have limited development potential, but most of the better climbing resources of the park are already developed.

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The wide carriage road is lined by the spring foliage of birch trees.

Did You Know?
Acadia National Park's carriage road system, built by John D. Rockefeller Jr., has been called “the finest example of broken stone roads designed for horse-drawn vehicles still extant in America.” Today, you can hike or bike 45 miles of these scenic carriage roads in the park.
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Last Updated: July 08, 2006 at 11:04 MST